Big cities have a list of tourist attractions that are always plugged at visitors and there’s nothing wrong with that. I’ve been going to Istanbul for decades and I still wander into the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace.

But for people who want to get beyond the obvious and dig around in the backwaters, here are some lesser known gems that I enjoy.

The Golden Horn is sometimes regarded as the poor relation of Istanbul waterways. It is neither as picturesque as the Bosphorus nor as grand as the Sea of Marmara. But its western shores are lined with ancient districts that are now home to communities of migrants from Anatolia.

Fener and Balat, the old Greek and Jewish districts have a particular country-come-to-city vibe. Tiny streets of once elegant mercantile mansions ring to the sound of the rural knife-grinder, the purveyor of tea-towels and the seller of natural yoghurt. These districts are thick with the aura of the Turkish village. They are also thick with fantastic sights that few tourists actually get out to.

Fener is home to the seat of the Greek Ecumenical Orthodox Patriarchate. From here the Greek Orthodox Patriarch administers the church just as his forebears have been doing since 1601. And although the patriarchal church of St George is comparatively modern (18th century), many of the artefacts within date from Byzantine times. If you want to connect with what remains of the pre-Ottoman city of Constantinople, this is the place to be.

The Patriarchate is on Sadrazam Ali Pasa Caddesi, Fener. It’s open 9am – 5pm and admission is free (although a donation is appreciated). Fener’s other Greek sights include the many wooden houses around the Patriarchate, the vast red brick Greek Boys School that still dominates the area and the squat church of St Mary of the Mongols.

This latter building is the only Greek church in the city that was not turned into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest. Ring the bell outside to call the caretaker who will show you around for a small tip. Grab lunch while you’re in this area at the 60 year old Kofteci Arnavut on Mursel Pasa Caddesi (No 155) which does the best meatballs in town.

The Ahrida Synagogue on Kurkcucesme Sokak, No 9 is at the heart of Balat, the oldest Jewish Quarter in Istanbul. Ahrida and its sister synagogue, the Yanbol, date from way before the vast influx of Sephardic Jews from Spain and Portugal in 1492. These are synagogues that date from Byzantine times and which were once used by Greek Jews from Salonika.

Entry into any of Istanbul’s synagogues will need to be organised at least 24 hours in advance by calling the office of the Chief Rabbinate of Turkey on 212-243 5166 or e-mail info@musevicemaati.com.

A one-hour ferry trip across the Sea of Marmara will bring you to a group of small, green islands, known as the Princes Islands.

The biggest of these, Buyukada, was once used as a prison by the Byzantine emperors. In the 1920s, Leon Trotsky lived here as well as the discredited court magician of the last Sultan of Turkey. It’s a pretty place where all motor transport is banned and everyone rides around in horse drawn phaetons.

Rich Istanbullu’s have their gingerbread house style summer residences or "yali’s" on Buyukada. On April 23 every year the monastery of Agio Yorgo up in the thickly wooded hills overlooking the sea plays host to thousands of pilgrims when it celebrates St George’s Day amid a flurry of customs and rites that probably go back to Ancient Greece.

Buyukada is a fabulous place to stroll and chill and up at the monastery, the Yucetepe Kir Gazinosu Restaurant provides beer, meze, fantastic chips and views to live for.

What is known as the New City is centred around Istiklal Caddesi. This 19th century, French influenced area is where Istanbullus eat, shop, drink and have fun.

On the main drag there are cake shops of appalling sinfulness (Inci Pastanesi, Istiklal Caddesi, No 124), gorgeous strolling transsexuals and Goths and, in the back streets, some of the best bookshops in the world (Pandora, Buyukparmakkapi Sokak, 3, and Simurg, Hasnun Galip Sokak).

Nevizade Sokak is the place to go to drink beer and raki. This is best approached through the Fish Market (Balik Pazar), which has its own Armenian church (Uc Horon).

I like to keep up Istanbul traditions when eating on Istiklal and so I go to Rejans, (Nevruz Sokak No 17). This is a Russo-Turkish restaurant which was started by refugee ballerinas from St Petersburg in the 1920’s. Famed for its Borscht and lemon vodka it was once a favourite of Atatürk. Now a little faded, I still love it. But then if you’re going to step off the main tourist trail you might as well do it properly and dine where the founder of the Republic once ate.

Finally if you do want to see real Dervishes whirl, then contact local arts organisation Les Arts Turcs (212 520 7743; www.lesartsturcs.com), which organise trips to genuine Dervish lodges on Monday evenings.